Herby K’s, Miss Eudora Loves The Jitney Jungle, And Joan Didion In The South

We finally made it to the Shreveport institution Herby K’s last summer —
Herby K's, Shreveport LA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

When we were walking up, I knew it was family-friendly, but had momentary doubts as it sure looks like package store / bar on the outside
Herby K's, Shreveport LA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

It was good — they had coloring sheets and crayons in cups to keep kids busy. And of course Av had their famous dish, the shrimp buster, which was pretty great

After leaving, we ran across a Shreveport Jitney Jungle which still has its signage. Every time I see one, I think of Eudora Welty and her almost daily trips to the Jitney #14 in the Belhaven neighborhood of Jackson, where mid-century, she was tipping the bagboys a dime, sometimes a quarter.

Jitney Jungle, Shreveport LA

Willie Morris first met Miss Eudora at the Jitney as a child when he went there with his great-aunt Maggie Harper, who lived across the street and treated the store as her own private pantry.

Jitney Jungle Sign

(I found this sign in 2005 in south Alabama)

That Belhaven Jitney is now a McDade’s, still with the tudor styling just like the Welty home, and is proudly local: when there last month, they had a nice display of Crechale’s comeback sauce by the registers.

Jitney Jungle Wrapping Paper, Woodville MS//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js
(found this Jitney butcher paper at an antique store in Woodville, Mississippi)

We were in town for Beth Israel’s 50th anniversary celebration, and had a nice supper at Lou’s Full-Serv, next door to the McDade’s.
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Lou's Full-Serv, Jackson MS//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js
Bonus: Shug made friends with one of the #catsofbelhaven outside the restaurant.


The new Joan Didion book, South and West, is reviewed at Vogue, and mentions the passing of her opportunity to meet Eudora Welty:
But in the summer of 1970, Didion was in limbo, between books, following an idea she could not yet fully articulate, that for some years the South had been America’s true “psychic center.” She acts on the impulses of a traveler (searching for the grave of William Faulkner in Oxford, Mississippi); she has some of the curious dialogues with strangers that are a signature of her stories; she has some of the rarified experience that come with being Joan Didion (gin and tonics on a bayou during a thunderstorm with Walker Percy). She elects, though, not to go to meet Eudora Welty because that would mean going to Jackson, Mississippi, where there was an airport from which she could easily fly home to California…

Nashville Arnold’s – And To Meringue, Or Not To Meringue? Plus: Put Half A Maraschino Cherry On That.

Thinking Nashville meat-and-three, Arnold’s is right on, tippy-top, must-do.

Arnold's Country Kitchen, Nashville TN//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

You know what to do. Read up on that menu because you don’t want to waste time when your tray makes that first stop!

Beginnings and endings: pie and salad.

I’m not even big on roast beef, but that’s what I got — and it was good.
Roast Beef, Arnold's Country Kitchen, Nashville TN//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Deep, dark, crusty, yummy fried green tomatoes.
Fried Green Tomatoes, Arnold's Country Kitchen, Nashville TN//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Av did chicken and dumplings, though we both believe more in biscuit-y dumplings.
Chicken & Dumplins, Arnold's Country Kitchen, Nashville TN//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

In my world, this is a hoecake, but I asked someone who worked at Arnold’s, and they just call this cornbread.
Hoecake, Arnold's Country Kitchen, Nashville TN//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Ever had chess pie with meringue? Don’t think it really needs it.
Chess Pie with Meringue, Arnold's Country Kitchen, Nashville TN//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Arnold’s was really good and a fun experience, but Niki’s West in Birmingham is still the top of my meat-and-three list. BTW, al.com did a survey of best M+3 in Alabama, and here are the winners.


Garden and Gun did a piece by Jed Portman on the classic pear salad:

Like many Southern mid-century cooks, she garnished run-of-the-mill canned pears with mayonnaise and mild cheddar. “Those were the pears on the table growing up,” Burdett says. “You got pears out of a deviled egg tray with cheese and mayo or you didn’t get pears at all.”

My grandparents liked to go to the Morrison’s Cafeteria in the Gadsden Mall (I remember when apartment hunting for University of South Alabama, I noticed they had a Morrison’s and thought to myself: well, at least I can still get my greens and not starve to death — which is crazy because I was super-college-poor and lived on a mix of ramen, the Wendy’s dollar menu, and whatever I could scrounge at Taco Bell). I think the last Morrison’s on planet Earth is in Mobile, where the chain originated, even today. It’s actually owned by Picadilly, which bought the Morrison’s chain, but they let the name live on in there.

Anyway, though the Garden and Gun article makes no mention of it, I remember the cafeteria pear salads always sported a half a maraschino cherry on top. Sure enough, I went onto Flickr and found a pic I took a couple of years ago at Matthew’s Cafeteria in Tucker, Georgia. Voila:
Pear Salad at Matthews Cafeteria, Tucker GA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Duncan Hines + James Beard Agree

Av’s been wanting to check more of the James Beard Classics winners off our list of restaurants to try (along with other JBF categories) so we gave the Beaumont Inn in Harrodsburg, Kentucky a try. It’s in a lovely building from 1845 that’s served as various educational institutions and has been run in its current function since 1919. With the outbuildings, there are 33 acres altogether.

The restaurant is housed inside the 1845 building, and it has several common areas for relaxing

Beaumont Inn, Harrodsburg KY//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Beaumont Inn, Harrodsburg KY//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Beaumont Inn, Harrodsburg KY//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Inside one case, their Duncan Hines award

From the JBF:

Founded by Glave Goddard and Annie Bell Goddard in 1917, the Beaumont, which opened for business in 1919, is still operated by their descendants. Set in a former women’s college built in 1845, the Beaumont main house is columned and formal. And the menu is deeply rooted in Kentucky. The Dedman family, now at the helm, serves Kentucky products with pride, including Weisenberger meal, Meacham hams, and bourbons from the best distillers in the state.

Recipes for dishes like corn pudding and fried chicken, handed down through five generations, form the core of the menu. As their forebears did, the Dedmans serve two-year-old country ham, which they bring to maturation in their own aging house. Little has changed since the days when the pioneering critic Duncan Hines was a regular. “Now write this down for the people in Kentucky,” he told a reporter back in 1949. “[Say] I’ll be happy to get home and eat two-year-old ham, cornbread, beaten biscuits, pound cake, yellow-leg fried chicken, and corn pudding. And you can say what I think is the best eating place in Kentucky: Beaumont Inn at Harrodsburg.”

Display from their James Beard Award in 2015
James Beard Award at Beaumont Inn, Harrodsburg KY//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Even the pats of butter are longing for the past: they’re from rose-shaped moulds.

The most classic dish on the menu: “yellow-legged” fried chicken and two-year-old Kentucky-cured country ham, green beans and corn pudding — all fabulous
Beaumont Inn, Harrodsburg KY//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

I had the *most* delicious fried chicken livers with cream gravy, whipped potatoes, and (curiously) grilled red onion
Fried Chicken Livers, Beaumont Inn, Harrodsburg KY//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Afterward, we went outside and played shuffleboard

…and Av decided this would be a great spot for a post-prandial nap


Of the restaurants Duncan Hines recommended in his ‘Adventures in Good Eating’ books, one person has started a thread of those establishments still open. Of the 164 listed on the 1935 Christmas card list, it seems that perhaps 37 still exist, with the only one further south than Kentucky being Antoine’s (several, several more are still extant from the Duncan Hines books since that first list).

I’ll Have What Eudora’s Having, And John Folse’s Seafood R’evolution

One evening, we were minus the boys and in Jackson, so Av decided to take me to the Fairview Inn to see if I’d like to stay there sometime in the future (we were staying at the Hilton on County Line Road that evening) — it’s a Bed and Breakfast. The idea was to drop in take a look at the grounds, and have a drink in the Library before having supper at Seafood R’evolution, the John Folse / Rick Tramonto restaurant in Ridgewood.

I told him we could give it a go in the future, but looking at the selection of rooms, I wasn’t especially excited about any of them. It’s not them…it’s me. It feels like one of my college best friend’s mother’s home. Very put together with a lot-lot of carpet, and framed prints, and dishes on walls.

Here, the library, which is appropriately all dark and wood and leather

The menu included drinks named after Mississippi authors including Faulkner, Tennessee Williams, Richard Wright, Shelby Foote, John Grisham, Margaret Walker, Alice Walker, and Kathryn Stockett. I had the Eudora Welty ‘Belhaven’ which was Cathead vodka, cucumber, Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray, Domaine de Canton Ginger Liqueur

Av had the Willie Morris Old Fashioned, which was made with Maker’s Mark

I did think it was funny that among the non-alcoholic drinks was one named for Mildred Pierce (this was the period in which Faulkner worked on screenplays) as toward the end, Mildred — this is one of my favorite films in the whole world — lets everyone know things have gotten such a way with her that she’s learned to drink “straight”.

We next had reservations at Seafood R’evolution in Ridgeland, which I’ve been wanting to go to since they opened. We especially enjoy John Folse and Rick Tramonto’s Restaurant R’evolution in the Quarter, so were interested to see what this concept would be like.

Beyond the host desk is the 13-foot raw bar

Seafood R'evolution, Jackson MS//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Love the buoy chandelier

Open kitchen

First, the bread service

*That biscuit* — yessss
Biscuit at Seafood R'evolution, Jackson MS//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Av had the shrimp and grits, which was pretty terrific
Shrimp and Grits, Seafood R'evolution, Jackson MS//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

This evening, I was more interested in the sides than the entrees, so I just ordered the brussels sprouts, roasted cauliflower with peanuts and capers, and cheese grits. So fab.
Grits and Brussels Sprouts and Roasted Cauliflower at Seafood R'evolution, Jackson MS//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Near our table, the glass wine cellar, which we were invited to walk into and take our time looking over

…and yesyesyes to the oyster-inspired tile flooring.
Seafood R'evolution, Jackson MS//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js
Makes me think of ihavethisthingwithtiles on IG.
Which in turn makes me think of the best/funniest thing I found on Tumblr (but this is the main site) all week.

Parking The Zeppelin / Lunch At Roots And Revelry

Av was going to be in New Orleans for a couple of days around Valentine’s Day, so he took me early to Roots and Revelry, the new 2nd floor restaurant at the Thomas Jefferson Tower in Birmingham — the building that has the last zeppelin mooring mast in the world, apparently.

There’s valet parking out front too, for those of us on four wheels.

First of all, these chandeliers are terrific — and the mural here is by Claire Godbee, a local artist.

View toward the bar:

While waiting, we got up and went out on the balcony for views of the city (and cornhole, though we couldn’t find the throws)

Thomas Jefferson Tower, Birmingham AL//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Thomas Jefferson Tower, Birmingham AL//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Av ordered the crispy chicken sandwich with chutney and while it was all good, the chutney was *amazing*
Roots & Revelry at the Thomas Jefferson Tower, Birmingham AL//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

and rather than an entree, I ordered an app and a side: the R and R vegetables (top left) — wouldn’t necessarily get that again as it was heavy and overloaded with ginger and sauce, and the pork rillettes with pickled vegetables and chicken liver mousse which was conversely fab
Roots & Revelry at the Thomas Jefferson Tower, Birmingham AL//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Afterwards, our server encouraged us to see more of the second floor, where the open area had a selection of more of Claire Godbee’s art (and one of the longest Chesterfield sofas anyone’s ever seen) and this ballroom area

Thomas Jefferson Tower, Birmingham AL//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Hi!
Av & Me at the Thomas Jefferson, Birmingham AL//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js


Though Av was working in NOLA on Valentine’s Day, after I dropped the boys off at school, I met a bunch of friends that day at Canterbury UMC as they were hosting ‘Stop Hunger Now’ which is also known as ‘Rise Against Hunger‘ — our jobs were to fill bags with soy protein, dehydrated vegetables, rice, and vitamin packets which altogether serve six people each in areas which are food insecure all around the world. Last year’s bags went to Haiti, and this year, our bags are going to Central America.

Next year, make plans to rock a hairnet with me! It’s easy work, goes by quickly (waaay too quickly! We were having so much fun on our shift!) and it’s a good deed. Yay!
Stop Hunger Now at Canterbury UMC//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

International House, Rosalie, Root, And King Cakes

At 221 Camp, the International House Hotel is just a couple of blocks from Canal, meaning it’s easy walking everywhere — one night we walked over to 160+ year old Tujague’s (just a few minutes so Av could chat with the owner, who he knows, and is a Bama grad) before a late supper at Irene’s Cuisine, which in all this time we had never been to before, but now that we’ve been, did not have the same fabulous experience so many other people have there. No matter, we had a really great trip.

Very nicely, the gentleman who checked us in comped us a couple of drinks for the hotel bar, Loa. I had the Rosalie, which the menu describes (before actually describing):
Rosalie: Italian saints work overtime; seems they’re always between the Rock and a new hard place. Just as St. Joseph decimated drought she headed off plague in Sicily, and more recently vanquished an anthrax epidemic among the cows of Kenner, for which protection her clients are to this day grateful, toting her life-sized statue lovingly to her home-church at her festival each year. 

Sparkling local kombucha, cucumbers, aperol, limoncello, brandy, tangerine, Peychaud’s bitters

Going up to the room, this mural made up of tiny tile pieces in the elevatorInternational House Hotel, New Orleans LA

The room was a nice size and comfortable, though not especially colorful or memorable — pretty greige.
International House Hotel, New Orleans LA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

International House Hotel, New Orleans LA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Actually the first night we were there (the boys were out of town on their own adventure) we had a celebratory supper at Root as Av’s company had just had a couple of big wins in the span of about a week.
Root and Square Root, New Orleans//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Root, New Orleans//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

I was thinking that we might have a really long supper (we used to settle in to those booths when Root was back in the Warehouse District), but perched on these — I think they may be Tolix Marais or cousins — I think the idea is more to snack and go
Bar Stools at Root, New Orleans//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Almost always at home, I just drink water, but in New Orleans, if a cocktail looks interesting, every now and then I will indulge. This is vodka, basil, pineapple, oloroso, Mexican vanilla, and (this is what got me) champagne gummies, which…tasted like gummies. hahaha!
Cocktail with Champagne Gummies at Root, New Orleans//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

As always, we made up a charcuterie board with some duck prosciutto, chicken liver pate, and a couple other items
Charcuterie with (my fave) Chicken Liver Pate at Root, New Orleans//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Av had the duck and grits which was amazing
Duck and Grits, Root, New Orleans//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

and I did the snack board: black mission fig (honey-whipped goat cheese, prosciutto), 62* egg (brioche, everything spice, chicken skin), salt cod beignets (pickled garlic aioli, parsley), pimento cheese (cheddar crackers), and wild boar sticky bun (Szechuan peppercorns). I love these little bites — just so much fun to be able to have one or two little bites of such different tastes.
Snack Board: Black Mission Fig, 62* Egg, Salt Cod Beignets, Pimento Cheese, Wild Boar Sticky Bun at Root, New Orleans//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

We had zero intention of getting dessert, but our server was just so friendly that after we were talking for a while and told her why we were celebrating, she insisted that they bring us a baked alaska, complimentary. It had fennel sorbet, pistachio custard, genoise cake, and herbsaint. So so so nice!

We only had a couple of bites but it was so appreciated.

Downstairs from Root is its sister restaurant, Square Root, with its only offering being a 16-course prix fixe menu. Fun! Chef Lopez’ latest is Part and Parcel in the CBD, a super-casual sandwich shop in the same building as Willa Jean
BTW, the next time I’m at Willa Jean, I’m bringing home their ‘Valrhona caramelized milk chocolate + espresso king cake’ AND the other king cake I need in my life this year is most definitely the babka king cake at Shaya.

If you’re thinking of making a galette de rois this season, my recipe for that is here.

Galette des Rois

Automatic for the People

On East Broad in Athens sits low to the street this kermit-green building putting out pork chops, vegetable plates and the like since 1986. The prices are reasonable which means the citizenry, including college students, are able to get their fix, and the world best knows Weaver D’s for what the owner sing-songs — not just your order, but his mantra, that it’s all “Automatic for the People”.

This sign previously hung outside but for the last few years it’s been here in the dining room

R.E.M. paid him for using his ‘Automatic for the People’ phrase on their 1992 release

From the L.A. Times
Weaver wasn’t into rock. Motown is his style. And he didn’t know that R.E.M. was really big. But they struck a deal. Weaver got “a pretty good amount.” And the deal put Weaver D’s, then open only six years, on the rock music map. Soon he found himself roasting 7,000 bags of peanuts for a Warner Bros. record promotion.

“My life changed,” he says. The world made its way to Weaver D’s door. CNN. CBS. MTV. Spin. Some came just to gawk. Some came to see the star-shaped metal sculpture, photographed by Anton Corbijn, that was on the album cover. “People think it’s on my roof,” he says. In reality, it’s in Miami. Maybe, he muses, he’ll have one built.

With its communal tables covered with checkered oilcloth, mismatched chairs and walls bedecked with things R.E.M., Weaver D’s continues to be a magnet for the band’s fans and the curious. At the height of the “Automatic” frenzy, someone stole Weaver’s sign, later returning it with a $10 bill and a note apologizing for ripping off “a genuine piece of Athens history.” Campaigning in Athens in 1992, Al Gore promised he and Bill Clinton would be “automatic for the people.”


The James Beard America’s Classic award is nonchalantly leaning up between the Mountain Dew machine and the television

Weaver D's Delicious Fine Foods, Athens GA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

It’s all good: collards, broccoli casserole, corn, peas, cornbread
Weaver D's Delicious Fine Foods, Athens GA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

banana pudding
Weaver D's Delicious Fine Foods, Athens GA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Galatoire’s

Lunch at Galatoire’s — this wasn’t a Friday lunch like Av and us like to do, but a less-busy but still cheerful and fun afternoon

Three martini lunch?

Crab and okra gumbo
Crab and Okra Gumbo, Galatoire's, New Orleans LA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

broiled drum Rockefeller
Broiled Drum Rockefeller, Galatoire's, New Orleans LA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

lemon tart
Lemon Tart, Galatoire's, New Orleans LA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

It’s always delicious, but I think what ‘makes’ Galatoire’s is not so much the food (there are better places to get a piece of fish) but the atmosphere. That, and that it’s the kind of place at which they will just take care of you. Want something different? There’s off-the-menu fried chicken if you ask.

all those coat hooks

They’re slow to change, which is another thing to love about it. It wasn’t until the mid-90s that they bought an ice machine so they could stop bringing in blocks of ice to hand-chip. And we’re still waiting in line (famously, Huey P. Long was even made to stand in line), though last time I just used Open Table. Also, it’s still the kind of place at which you may just want to leave everything to the waiter (especially if it’s John) and take their lead on what’s best. Forget that menu business. Or just remember the fried chicken…


From ‘Streetcar Named Desire’ (Tennessee Williams was a Galatoire’s regular and had his own table):
(Stella:) I’m taking Blanche to Galatoire’s for supper and then to a show, because it’s your poker night.
(Stanley:) How about my supper, huh? I ain’t going to no Galatoire’s for supper.
(Stella:) I put you a cold plate on ice.
(Stanley:) Well, isn’t that just dandy!

Everyone Loves Allan Benton, Including The Tennessee Governor’s Art Awards

Very happy to see that the State of Tennessee has bestowed its 2017 Governor’s Art Award, Folklife Heritage Award to Allan Benton.

About him, they note:
Benton has been curing over 12,000 hams a year for over 40 years. He uses traditional techniques passed down to him by his parents and grandparents. The hams are slowly cured through several stages and temperatures for at least nine months before they are sold. He uses the same cure his father did in the smokehouse behind his childhood home—a family recipe consisting of salt, brown sugar and pepper. Benton hangs pigs’ legs from wooden racks until the time is right, anywhere from 14 to 24 months for the aged hams. Country ham is a simpler recipe and a shorter cure. Bacon bellies are smoked for three to four days.

…He has been described by Saveur as “one of the most respected producers in the United States.” Benton’s hams and bacon have become the standard against which all others are measured and are sought after by top chefs like Sean Brock, David Chang, and Hugh Acheson. In 2015 Benton was awarded the James Beard Foundation’s “Who’s Who of Food and Beverage in America” Award, given to those in the food industry who have contributed to America’s culinary scene.

Using his artistry, expertise and devoted adherence to old traditional methods in one of Tennessee’s renowned foodways traditions, Benton’s Country Hams truly reflect the diversity and depth of Tennessee heritage. Those who would like to incorporate a few pounds of bacon into their pantry or want a whole country ham of their own would be wise to plan on ordering in advance. Benton owns the distinction for being the first foodways awardee in the history of the Tennessee Governor’s Arts Awards.


We’ve been huge fans of Allan Benton for years now, and have enjoyed every side-trip to Benton’s in Madisonville, Tennessee with the chance to get to visit with him.

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His is a simple block building with metal roof and paneling on the walls, but it is a mecca when it comes to smoked meat.

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These pics come from different visits, but any time you come, Allan seems to always be happy to take anyone in the back to see where the magic happens.

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DSC02720

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Love, love. Good job, Allan. Well deserved.

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Benton's Country Hams, Madisonville TN//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Benton's Country Hams, Madisonville TN//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Benton's Country Hams, Madisonville TN//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Lunches at Commander’s

I was just thinking of Richard Saja’s embroidered toile, and he has some new work from this summer up on his site. I never mind waiting in the foyer at Commander’s Palace as we check in for our reservation because it gives me a great chance to see things in his work there that I haven’t noticed before.

(this pic from an earlier visit:)
Commander's Palace, New Orleans//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

These little bites of bread are so good — butter/garlic/dill spread upon french (I imagine this is just poboy) bread they just shatter when they’re bitten into. There’s something about it that seems a little silly, but it’s fun. And yummy.

And then there’s the *real* bread, served perfectly warm
Commander's Palace, New Orleans LA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

In this post, I’m consolidating the dishes from a couple of different lunches we enjoyd, but one of us always gets the turtle soup that they note on the menu takes three days to make. It’s finished table-side with sherry
Commander's Palace, New Orleans LA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Louisiana seafood boil tamale: spicy poached redfish, shrimp and oysters, grilled corn tamale, crab boiled vegetables, tomato chili coulis and roasted poblano-cilantro cream
Louisiana Seafood Boil Tamale, Commander's Palace, New Orleans LA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Crispy Des Allemands Catfish: wild catfish filets with warm crab boil potato salad, Creole mustard-dressed cabbage and mirlitons with pickled okra aioli and NOLA BBQ vinaigrette
Commander's Palace, New Orleans LA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Barbecued Gulf shrimp and grits
New Orleans Barbecued Gulf Shrimp and Grits, Commander's Place, New Orleans LA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Creole Bread Pudding Souffle, created by Paul Prudhomme when he was chef here in 1980, looking for a special dessert to celebrate Commander’s 100th birthday
Creole Bread Pudding Souffle, Commander's Palace, New Orleans LA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

pecan pie a la mode
Commander's Palace, New Orleans LA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js

Ha! They surprised us with a couple of things, and one was this sundae!

On one visit, they made Shug a foil snail — how great is this!?!

Foil Art: Leftovers Snail at Commander's Place, New Orleans LA//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js


The documentary about Ella Brennan, Ella Brennan: Commanding the Table, was released in October. About her, the doc’s site reads:
Ella Brennan is a household name in the restaurant industry. Known today as the inspirational matriarch of the rambling Brennan family of New Orleans and the force of nature behind first Brennan’s and then Commander’s Palace. Fired by her family at one point, she shouldered on. She was the creator of elaborate New Orleans breakfasts and jazz brunches and revolutionized creole cuisine. A pioneer of the modern American food movement, she pushed her chefs to the forefront helping to launch the celebrity chef phenomenon.

https://player.vimeo.com/video/175593627?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0
Ella Brennan: Commanding the Table Trailer


Just because: foil squirrel takeout at a restaurant in Portland